Cheese by Rogue Creamery
This year’s IACP was my first conference and it was fantastic. What a treat it was to have over 900 food lovers, chef’s, food writers, food photographers, food stylists, and recipe developers descend on our already food-obsessed town! I volunteered for several events which in turn I was allowed to go to them. Other than designing the signage for the opening reception, I was able to help out with the lovely Ellen Jackson’s dinner A Culinary Duet, a fundraiser for The Culinary Trust.
by Chef David Machado of Nel Centro
The opening reception was, in retrospect, a dream. Imagine yourself walking into a rococo ornate hall with ceilings that seem to reach the sky, all decorated with real pears hanging from branches, deep low lighting, and then being handed a sparkling glass of champagne as you enter. As you walk a little further over the soft, plush carpeting padding your footsteps, you are handed plate after beautiful plate of fresh, aromatic, and at times sensual foods from over 18 different local chefs. The roaring noise from hundreds of people’s chatter and exclamations slowly fades as you sip and nibble your way through the room. Every now and then you close your eyes to take in the layers of flavors and textures from what you are nibbling only to open your eyes to see the chef who made it smiling back at you. “That’s what I thought too” he might say, “the first time I tried this.” Fantastic. There was an entire room dedicated to local wines and beers where it was all flowing quite freely. And yet another room, rouge red and dark, solely dedicated to absinthe tasting. It was like a secret club that actually took me quite a while to find. The only reason I knew it existed was because I made a sign for it. I had never tasted absinthe before and it is interesting. It has a heavy anise flavor, like black licorice, but just slides right down. I wouldn’t be able to drink much of it (I’m not an anise fan), but it was wonderful to try.
Pix Patisserie macaroons
Bunk Sandwiches (seriously the best sandwich I’ve ever had: spicy chorizo, avocado, messy, amazing street food…)
Paley’s Place seafood gnocci
Raw beef nigiri
Absinthe pouring, by owner and distiller Gwydion Stone
Then there was Ellen’s dinner. Also not a dream, I have to remind myself, but a true taste of the bounty of the Pacific Northwest. There were seven local chefs and artisans, as well as the farmers and ranchers with whom they collaborated. They created an exceptional family-style meal dinner that “blended old and new” cooking traditions with Oregon’s culinary heritage. Karen Page and Andrew Dornenburg, authors of The Flavor Bible introduced each chef through out the meal. The menu was exceptional:
Appetizers included carrot soup with roasted Braeburn apples and chervil, a goat’s milk ricotta on walnut bread, pea shoots, and olive oil, as well as a flank steak, grilled beef heart and beef liver pate (which was actually my favorite!). All of the appetizers were done by Executive Chef Aaron Dionne of Bon Appetit Management Company.
Fresh rosemary tied around the bases of the branches, such a wonderful touch!
For the first course we ate wild morel puff pastry with gathered spring greens and aged sauvignon blanc vinaigrette (wine pairings: Trisaetum 2008 Estate Riesling and Willamette Valley Vineyards 2007 Dry Reisling) by Chef Naomi Pomeroy of Beast restaurant.
The second course was a lamb, purgatorio bean, and spring vegetable roast (incredible!) (wine pairing: Erath 2006 Prince Hill Pinot Noir) by Chef Jason French of Ned Ludd as well as a grilled country ham, south carolina grits and wild mushroom red eye gravy (wine pairing: Grochau Cellars 2007 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir) done by Chef Adam Sappington of The Country Cat Dinner House.
The cheese course was done by Steve Jones, of The Cheese Bar. There was a Borenkaas (raw cow’s milk aged Gouda), a Tin Willow Tomme (raw sheep’s milk), and a Cynthian (raw goat’s milk with herbs). The latter was my favorite–it was soft, but not creamy like a brie, and infused with the essence or perfumes of the herbs instead of them being right in there. Amazing.
Then, for dessert we had a hazelnut cake, rhubarb compote and creme fraiche ice cream by Pastry Chef Lauren Fortgang of Paley’s Place (wine pairing: Francis Tannahill 2008 Gewurztraminer) and a Piment d’Esplette & chocolate by David Briggs of Xocolatl de David. The chocolate was actually two small round chocolate cookies with a foie gras chocolate (called Foitella) sandwiched between. About half the table loved it, the other half did not. I fell into the latter category–but then again, I’m not a mole fan (and I wish I was!) so meat and chocolate together just are not my taste all too often.
I’d say Portland exceeded in showing the culinary crowd how well they do food here, beyond even their wildest imagination. The dinner was set in an old converted building that literally transformed itself as the sun set, with candles hanging from the branches at each table, easily yet daintily illuminating every place setting just enough so the diner could see what they were eating. The entire experience was a little bit like magic. I even pinched myself the next day when I woke up. As I was making my morning tea, I looked over on the counter and saw the menu sitting there–it wasn’t just a dream.
A few weeks ago, I was at a friends house and had my first bite of spring: a wheel of fresh goat cheese smothered in a chopped garlic, rosemary, and olive oil compote. Sprinkled with a little sea salt, I couldn’t believe my mouth. Really? I mean, I understand the power of fewer ingredients and am an ardent lover of garlic, but come on–this can taste that good? I thought to myself. Yes and yes. It was so simple, so fresh, a little spicy, definitely aromatic, and soft around the flavor-edges that I think I must have eaten about half of it–probably to make sure I was in reality and not a dream.
Making this impressive tasting hour d’oeuvre is actually super simple. Take a nice goat cheese and shape it into a circle (or not, a log of chev is fine too!) on a deep plate or in a shallow bowl. Mince some fresh garlic (8-10 large cloves), finely chop some fresh rosemary (3-4 tablespoons), stir it together with about a 1/2 – 1 cup nice olive oil (depending on how much cheese you have, use more or less), pour it over the cheese, slice a nice batard or ciabatta bread and you are ready to enjoy.
The flowers are in full effect up here in the Pacific Northwest. Andrew and I visited the annual tulip festival again last weekend which was gorgeous. One square mile of all tulips everywhere–varieties upon varieties that are jewel like in color and shape. It’s one of my favorite things about Oregon!
I went on a little walk around my neighborhood the other day and collected a huge bag of lilacs, blue-bells, and flowering rosemary from the surrounding alley’s. The color of the month here in Portland is definitely purple. Unless, of course, you visit the tulip festival. Then it’s every color under the rainbow. For the rest of the week, I will be busy at the IACP conference. I’m helping with the Culinary Trust dinner tomorrow night which I am so excited about!
Thanks for stopping in, enjoy the rosemary-garlic compote! Cheers!
Cheese. There is nothing quite like eating cheese! Depending on my mood, I love the nuttiness of a hard manchego paired with a sweet homemade jam (quince or a mellow marmalade) and a hard piece of toasted crostini; or a creamy, creamy feta. While living in Greece several summers ago, I discovered Bulgarian Feta–I would buy it in slices from the feta counter (yes, imagine your specialty grocery store’s cheese counter–except it is all different kinds of feta!), a few fresh tomatoes still warm from the sun and just eat them together on my walk home, juices running down my hands and arms probably with a huge grin on my face. But I digress, because there is a special place in my heart for a good goat cheese too. And luckily for me (and maybe you too!) it is very easy to make.
When I first saw this recipe, I had to read it a few times because the photos were so stunning. My eyes kept roving over the screen, drinking in the milky-white images–of what?–and once it registered–homemade cheese–I set to work making some myself. With a huge grin on my face 
.
I’ve made it a few times since my first try, trying a new fresh herb chopped finely and stirred in, or just eating it naked–with a sprinkling of sea salt. And each time I feel a little surprised at how easy it is to do! (Both make it AND eat it, that is). And the flavor is wonderful, mellow, with a hint of the lemon–which I absolutely love mingling with the sea salt and/or fresh herbs. I toast up some bread I’ve made, or a baguette I’ve picked up in the oven sprinkled with a little olive oil and wa la! It becomes the best hor d’oeuvres, snack, lunch, dinner, or all of the above.
I highly recommend giving this a try! Pick up some fresh goats milk (pasteurized is better than ultra-pasteurized if you can find it–I’ve used both with good results though…) from the store, grab a few lemons, and sniff through the fresh herbs checking to see which ones look the best and go from there. Serve it to your friends and they will be wildly impressed. Don’t worry, your secret is safe with me . Cheers!
Homemade Goat Cheese via Kiss My Spatula via Over the Rainbeau, Living the Dream of Sustainable Farming
“Feel free to experiment with your herb(s) of choice and any other flavor combinations that float your boat. The sky’s the limit! Be careful not to drain your cheese for too long, as it may begin to dry out and lose that supple, creamy consistency you’re going after. If you do happen to lose track of time, reserve the whey “drippings” and fold, 1/4 tsp at a time, back into the cheese until you reach your desired consistency.”
Ingredients
1 quart pasteurized goat’s milk (avoid ‘ultra’-pasteurized)
1/4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/2 clove freshly grated garlic
a few pinches herbs de provence
freshly chopped parsley
coarse salt, to taste
Method
In a medium saucepan, slowly heat milk until it reaches 180 degrees on a candy thermometer. Remove from heat and stir in lemon juice. Let stand until milk starts to curdle, about 15-20 seconds. If milk does not curdle, add a little more lemon juice.
Line a colander with several layers of cheesecloth and place over a large bowl. Ladle milk into colander. Pull up and tie the four corners of cheesecloth together and hang on the handle of a wooden spoon, set over a stockpot or very deep bowl. Allow to drain until the consistency of slightly dry cottage cheese is reached, about 1-1.5 hours. Transfer to a bowl and fold in salt, herbs and garlic. Serve immediately atop warm crostinis. Can be stored in an airtight container, refrigerated, up to 1 week.
