Eating Is Art

There are many clans within the gingerbread family, all of which deserve praise for their uniqueness and variety. Gingerbread, while they all carry the same sur-name, are in fact quite different. They may have the same grandparents, or great-grandparents of origin, but depending on where you are, each of these breads takes on a distinct flavor and a different language. I decided to test out some tried and true recipes to see which ones were the best: namely, exceeding my wildest expectations. And sure enough, I found them to be fair cousins of each other, each distinct and holding their own within the greater family.

The tall, dark, and handsome of the group is unlike any other gingerbread you’ll taste–and I’m fairly certain you can not easily find this in any bakery or store–so you’ll have to make it to try it. The earthy, rich tones that come through are deep and alluring, a bit like an 80% cocoa chocolate bar. If you let it sit on your tongue and chew slowly, you’ll be surprised with how many layers their are complete with undertones, midtones, and highlights. Like a great glass of wine, this gingerbread is show stopping and a great conversation starter. Make sure to think about what you are tasting as you bite into it as you don’t want to miss any of the esspresso depth, the lemon zesty zing, and the black peppery finish. Pair this with some vanilla, hazelnut, or lavender whipped cream and you’ll be in heaven.

The second gingerbread is elegant and classic. It’s what you would expect from a gingerbread–spicy but not over the top, aromatic but genteel. Yet, it is a step above a regular gingerbread. It’s like the Katherine Hepburn or the Gretta Garbo of the family. Beautiful, well-developed, light, and airy, while simultaneously alluring, seductive, and complex. Eat this cake on it’s own–or dress it up with some of that left over whipped cream you made for the first one (vanilla or plain is best).

The final gingerbread is simple and beautiful. It’s the lightest of the bunch, a fair-haired soprano if you will. And its scented, lingering song will capture your attention and imagination until the entire cake is done. She is also the most straightforward of the bunch. In her youthful glory, she tells it how it is and what you get is a delicious, almost virginal gingerbread. Which is why it is great with breakfast, or a mid-day snack with tea. No games, no complexity, but straightforward goodness. And a personal favorite.

I decided that these edible cousins needed to be elevated to the position that they deserved: prominently on the head—as of course that makes them closer to the heavens and the stars—each holding their own as the crowning glory of gingerbread. While wearing them on your head as a crown really is best, you can also choose to make them into little cakes–either in tartlette pans or baby cake molds–or you can make a big ‘ol sheet of gingerbread and slice thick squares. You could also use a round cookie cutter and cut small cakes out of your big ‘ol sheet of cake–then save the scraps for yourself!–especially if you are taking it to a party. But any way you cut it (or wear it!), they will still be delicious.

Tall, Dark, & Handsome Gingerbread recipe adopted via Beth Hensperger’s The Bread Bible

2 1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons instant espresso powder 1 tablespoon ground ginger 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1/2 teaspoon ground cloves 1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg 1/4 teaspoon salt grated zest of one lemon 8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter 1/2 cup packed light brown sugar 1/2 cup unsulfured molasses 1/2 cup pure maple syrup 2 large eggs 2 teaspoons baking soda 1 cup boiling water

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Grease a 9 inch square or round cake pan, then line with parchment. In a large mixing bowl using a whisk, combine the flour, espresso, spices, salt, and lemon zest. In a small saucepan, combine the butter, brown sugar, molasses, and maple syrup. Stir constantly over low heat until the butter is melted. Remove from heat.

2. Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients and pour in the hot butter mixture. Add the eggs and immediately beat with a wooden spoon or electric mixer until smooth. Combine the baking soda and boiling water. Pour over the batter and stir gently just until evenly incorporated.

3. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Place the pan in the center of the oven and bake 35 to 40 minutes, or until the top springs back when touched and a cake tester inserted into the center comes out clean. Let cool in the pan on a rack, then cut into wedges or squares and serve warm. If you want to make individual cakes, bake the gingerbread in a large, flat jelly roll pan and bake for 25-30 minutes, let cool in the pan, then using a cookie cutter, cut out individual cakes. Top with cold crème fraiche, fresh raspberries, and a mint sprig.

The Gretta Garbo Gingerbread recipe adapted from The Perfect Cake by Susan G. Purdy

2 1/2 cups sifted all purpose, unbleached flour 1/2 teaspoon baking powder 1 teaspoon baking soda 1/2 teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons ground ginger 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1/2 cup lightly salted butter (1 stick) at room temperature 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar 1 large egg, at room temperature 1/2 cup full fat sour cream 1/2 cup unsulfured molasses 1 cup very hot water

1. Grease and line a square baking pan, or you can use muffin tins, molds, or baby cake tins. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.

2. Sift together flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and spices, and set aside.

3. In the large bowl of an electric mixer, cream together butter and sugar until completely blended to a granular paste. Scrape down inside of the bowl and beat in the egg and sour cream.

4. In a 2 cup Pyrex measuring glass, combine the molasses and very hot water, stirring until molasses is nearly dissolved. With the mixer on low speed, add about one quarter of the flour mixture to the batter. Alternately add remaining flour and the molasses-water, beating slowing to blend each addition.

5. Spoon batter into prepared pan, smooth top evenly, then spread batter slightly toward pan edges. Bake in the preheated oven for 35 minutes, or until a toothpick or knife inserted into the center comes out clean and the top of the cake is light and springy to the touch. Cool on a wire rack and cut into thick squares and serve directly. Vanilla whipped cream or ice cream goes well with this.

Fair-Haired Soprano Gingerbread via Edith via MFK Fisher

First 1/4 cup earth balance or butter (she calls for shortening–if you use it, try non-hydrogenated) 1/4 cup sugar –Cream the butter and sugar together in a bowl.

Second 1/2 cup molasses 1/2 teaspoon baking soda –Whisk the baking soda into the molasses well, then using a spatula transfer into the creamed butter and sugar bowl. Mix well.

Third In yet another bowl, whisk together… 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1-2 teaspoons ginger (I like it on the spicy side) 1 teaspoon cloves 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 1/4 cups flour 1 teaspoon baking powder –After you’ve whisked these, set bowl aside.

Fourth 3/4 cup boiling water 1/4 teaspoon baking soda –Add the baking soda to the boiling water. Alternate adding to the creamed butter, sugar, molasses mixture with the dry ingredients.

Fifth 1 egg –Add a slightly beaten egg to the entire mixture until combined.

Finally Pour into a prepared (buttered and floured) square pan. Place into center rack in a preheated oven of 325 degrees F. Bake for 20 minutes or until a toothpick is inserted in the center and comes out clean. *I had to bake mine for about twice that amount of time (40 mins) and I am not sure if it is because of my oven in particular or if back then ovens were just a heckuva lot hotter due to being wood burning or something. Just make sure you check yours after 20 minutes, if it looks completely underdone and the center is still wobbly, not to worry, just put it back in there for ten more minutes, check it and it may even need five to ten more minutes after that to be completely baked in the middle.